Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required, White

READ THIS: If you are having trouble completing the setup process
I’ve had one of these switches for many, many years. It works fine in all aspects, and at the time of setup, I didn’t have any trouble connecting to my network and completing the setup process. Fast-forward to November 2025, I needed another one. The HS200 model. For the life of me, I could not complete the setup. I tried restarting it. I tried resetting it. Turned off my Battery Saver. Nothing would work. I was exasperated and ready to send it back to Amazon, thinking I had a defective smart switch.But then, on a hunch, I looked at the available WiFi connections on my phone. There was one that said “TP-Link” and a bunch more letters and numbers, as far as I can recall. My Android 16 Pixel 7 phone also said that the TP-Link WiFi SSID did not have an Internet connection. Bingo! That is the temporary WiFi SSID for the TP-Link Smart Switch that enables its setup connection. But Android 16 will only connect to a non-Internet connection for a few seconds before switching back to another WiFi that does provide Internet.So, I connected to the TP-Link WiFi again via Android WiFi settings connections, but this time a checked the box that said to stay connected regardless of it not having Internet access. Eureka! That did it! I went back to my Kasa app and resumed the new device setup. This time, when Kasa searched for my new smart switch, it was able to make a permanent connection to the smart switch’s non-Internet WiFi and stay connected. The rest of the setup went as expected.The switch was NOT defective. It was just how Android decides to “help” a user to not stay connected to a non-Internet WiFi connection. This help consists of disabling that connection after a few seconds, and switching back to one that does have Internet. And that is what was making the setup process fail.If you were having trouble, I hope you found this helpful.

An Easy way to control multiple devices on a single circuit.
I made the jump to a “Smart Home” a little over a month ago after Alexa joined our family. After talking to some friends, doing some research and assesing my needs I settled on TP-Link because of the variety of Smart products they offered, no requirements for a Hub, the lower cost and the ability to control everything from one simple app on my Smart phone and Amazon”s Alexa.I have not been disappointed. After a very short learning curve, I surprisingly found the installation and set-up of all the TP-Link Smart devices extremely easy and intuitive. I have installed several different Smart devices including three different bulbs (LB-100, 120 & 130) depending on the area, as well as, Smart Switches (HB-200) and Smart Plugs. All of it has installed, programed and worked with few problems.The only criticism I have is the Kasa App. I have found it to be a bit bugy at times, but since I use it primarily for programming and setting up new devices and scenes, rather than operationally, it has not been an issue since Alexa handels most of that work. So far, in the six weeks my Smart Home has been in operation I have only had one problem where Alexa and the Kasa app lost communication with most of (but not all) of my TP-Link devices. But after a bit of head scratching I was able to restore communication.So here’s a tip to remember: I first tried rebooting the devices by cycling the power breaker, but that didn’t work. Probably due to multiple devices signaling simultaneously and overloading Kasa. But, powering each device down for a few seconds then back up, and testing it before moving on ro the next one worked without a problem.I also recommend using a different control application. I only have experience with Amazon Alexa, but it also interfaces with Google Home among others. I have found that controlling scenes from Kasa not to be reluable for some reason, while issuing the scene commands to Alexa works 90% of the time, with repeating the command becoming necessary about 10% of the time. But even with an occasional repeated command being necessary, TP-Link devices respond extremely well through Alexa’s control. Plus Alexa is able to easily “group” multiple devices so you can control areas with a single command, or program macro activities that Alexa can perform with a single command. Capabilities Kasa does not have.This is another deficiency of the Kasa app. Without the ability to group devices or run macro routines, it relies on programmed scenes which are very limiting for operational control. So another controlling app like Alexa or Home is essential to the TP-Link Smart Home system.For me, because I have Alexa for operational control, both at home and away, these short comings in the Kasa app are non-issues. But if I didnt have this capability I think I would look to a different Hub controlled platform for my Smart Home lighting and device control.HS-200 Smart Switch:I am a retired electrician, so I found the installation easy. Most DIY homeowners with a basic knowledge of electricity and components should also have few problems with the installation.I found this Smart Switch easy to control and the installation is about the same as replacing a standard light switch. But, a big drawback is not have a dimming capability. To me this should be a no-brainer and i cant understand why this featire is lacking. Because that would makevthis a 5 star product.So before you procede there are a couple of precautions that should be noted.First, you must three wires plus the ground (usually bare or green), and one must be the neutral (usually white) third wire, or the switch simply will not work. This can be an issue in some older homes (and even in some newer ones too).The neutral wire is the “common” wire that runs throughout the house and is common to all circuits. It completes the loop in the circuit from the electrical box to the receptacle. The “hot” (or “line”) wire (usually black) carries the electrical load for that circuit only (usually 15-20 amps max). And finally, the “load” wire (usually black, red, or it could even be white) completes the hot side of the circuit between the switch and the receptacle. To save time and money some electricians when wiring homes “old school” would complete the light circuit by running the neutral to the light receptacle and then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) to the switch. So even though you may have a white and black wire at the switch, the white wire is not a neutral, but the load wire that that completes the hot circuit when the switch is turned on (closed). So if you don’t have 3 wires, one of them being the white neutral, you are out of luck using a Smart Switch. You can control the light however, by using Smart bulbs and then grouping them in the controling app (like Alexa).Another caution is wire management. Standard light switches don’t take up much room, so the original installing electrician had lots of room in the box to stuff extra wire. This is a luxury you don’t have since the Smart Switch is much deeper and takes up most of the box. The new switch also uses leads that are wire nutted to the circuit wires and not terminated on the switch itself. Because of this, it may be necessay to shorten the wires to make room in the box for the extra electronics and wire nuts.My advice is to open your intended switch boxes to survey your electrical wiring BEFORE you order the switches, so there are no surprises when it comes time to install.One last safety precaution. Be sure to turn off the circuit at the electrical panel (breaker box). Also don’t assume that all switches in a multi-switch box are on the same circuit. It is often the case that multiple circuits are in the box. This is especially true when a switch is controling a plug. So check all wires in the box with a meter to insure nothing is hot.Finally, when wire nutting multiple wires it is VERY EASY to leave a wire loose. This can be very dangerous, as loose wires can work themselves free and cause arking and sparking that can damage connected equipment, and worse, start a fire. This is a common cause of electrical fires, and you might not know there is a problem until it’s too late. So to ensure all wire nut connections are tight and secure, tug on each wire at the nut with needle nose pliers. If you can’t pull it loose it should be good to go. Also make sure there are no bare wires poking out of the nuts. The switches use stranded wire so it’s easy to have some stray strands loose outside the nut.So that’s about it. The install is pretty easy most of the time, but if you don’t think you’re experienced enough to do the job safely, put this phase of the job in the hands of a professional. It should be an easy job for any professional electrician, and should not be terribly expensive. Consider it cheep insurance!

It works great.

Excelente producto